Varenna is a small village on the eastern shore of Lake Como in Lombardy, with colourful houses climbing the hillside above the water. Ferries come and go all day and trains from Milan stop just above the centre, so it feels peaceful yet easy to reach.
Narrow lanes, stone steps and tiny courtyards give Varenna a village atmosphere. Lakeside paths curve around the harbour. Gardens and a hilltop castle offer wide views across the mountains. It is one of the most romantic towns on Lake Como, but it also works for relaxed family holidays and short breaks.
Why visit Varenna on Lake Como
Varenna suits travellers who want scenery, gentle walks and boat trips. It feels quieter than some better known resorts, yet you still have cafés, restaurants and several famous sights in one compact place.
Choose Varenna if you want:
A direct train connection from Milan and Lecco
Fast ferries to Bellagio and Menaggio
A romantic base with lake views and gardens
Short hikes and walks without needing a car
For many visitors, Varenna is the best base on Lake Como. It is especially practical for European visitors who prefer to travel by train and avoid driving in Italy. You can enjoy village life in the evening, then explore other towns during the day. It also works as a classic day trip if you prefer to sleep in Milan or another city.
Where is Varenna and how to get there
Varenna sits on the central section of Lake Como, roughly opposite Bellagio and close to Menaggio. The village spreads along the shore and climbs steeply up the slope behind. Above the houses you find terraced gardens, olive trees and walking paths.
Milan to Varenna by train
The easiest way to reach Varenna is by train. Regional trains run from Milano Centrale to Varenna Esino station. The journey usually takes about one hour. There are many direct trains each day, from early morning to late evening.
From the station, a short downhill walk leads into town. You reach the lakefront and ferry pier in about ten minutes. The path is simple, but it can feel steep if you carry heavy luggage.
You can also reach Varenna from Lecco and other towns on the eastern shore. Trains run up and down the lake, so it is easy to connect from different bases.
Ferries on Lake Como
Varenna is one of the key ferry stops on Lake Como. Passenger and car ferries link the village with Bellagio and Menaggio. Services are frequent in spring, summer and early autumn, especially on the central routes. In winter the timetable is thinner, but boats still run.
The short crossings make it simple to visit more than one town in a day. Many travellers do a triangle route: Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio. You can start in Varenna, spend a few hours in Bellagio, then continue to Menaggio before returning.
Arriving by car
You do not need a car for a holiday in Varenna. Streets in the historic centre are narrow and full of steps. Parking near the lake is limited. A car can help for wider exploration, but many visitors rely only on trains and boats.
If you arrive by car, check in advance where you can park. Some hotels and apartments offer spaces uphill from the centre. Public car parks sit near the main road and at the edges of the village.
Best things to do in Varenna
Wander the old town and Riva Grande harbour
Start with a walk through the old town. Stone lanes twist between tall houses. Laundry hangs above you. Small archways open suddenly to the water.
The heart of the village is Riva Grande, the small harbour. Restaurants and bars line the curve of the bay. Terraces sit right above the lake. This is the classic picture of Varenna that appears on many postcards.
Come here early in the morning for quiet photos and soft light. Return around sunset for an aperitivo or dinner with views.
Walk the Passeggiata degli Innamorati
Between the ferry pier and the harbour you find the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, also called the Lover’s Walk. This metal walkway clings to the rock above the water. Red railings and benches line the path.
The walk is short but very scenic. You see trains sliding along the lakeshore and boats crossing to Bellagio. It is one of the easiest and most romantic things to do in Varenna.
Piazza San Giorgio and the historic churches
Above the harbour, stone steps lead to Piazza San Giorgio. This small square is the village centre. Children play here in the evening. Locals stop to chat outside cafés.
On one side stands the Church of San Giorgio. It has a simple stone façade and a tall bell tower. Inside you can see frescoes and altars from different centuries.
Close by is the smaller Church of San Giovanni Battista. It is older and more modest, with fragments of medieval frescoes on the walls. Both churches are quiet places to step out of the sun.
Visit Villa Monastero gardens and museum
Villa Monastero stretches along the lake just south of the centre. Once a monastery, it later became a private villa. Today it houses a museum and conference centre, but most visitors come for the gardens.
The garden is narrow and very long. Paths wind between citrus trees, palms, statues and terraces. At every turn you look out over Lake Como. Benches invite you to sit and enjoy the view. The gardens are usually open from spring to autumn, with longer hours in the main holiday months.
You can usually visit only the gardens or combine the gardens with the house museum. Plan at least an hour to walk slowly and take photos.
Explore Villa Cipressi terraces
Next to Villa Monastero you find Villa Cipressi. The building is now a hotel, but the multi-level garden is often open to visitors for a fee.
Stone steps drop from terrace to terrace. Cypresses, flower beds and low walls frame the views. From here you see the three branches of the lake and the village roofs below. It is a beautiful place for slow walks and wedding photos.
Hike up to Castello di Vezio
Castello di Vezio sits above Varenna on a narrow ridge. The hike up takes around 30 to 40 minutes, depending on your pace. Paths are steep and uneven, so wear solid shoes.
At the top you find stone walls, a small tower and wide views. On clear days you can see deep into the Alps and along the lake. From time to time there are art installations or falconry demonstrations.
This is one of the best viewpoints on Lake Como. Go early or late in the day in summer to avoid heat.
Walk to Fiumelatte
South of Varenna lies the tiny hamlet of Fiumelatte. Its name comes from a short, milky white river that appears only part of the year.
You can walk from the centre of Varenna in about 15–20 minutes. The path follows the lakeshore before climbing slightly into the village. From there, a short trail leads up above the river.
The walk is easy and gives different angles on the lake and railway. It is a simple outing on a warm afternoon.
Walking, hiking and outdoor activities
Sentiero del Viandante
Varenna stands on the Sentiero del Viandante, the historic Wayfarer’s Path. This long-distance trail follows the eastern side of Lake Como. It links small villages, chapels and old mule tracks.
You do not need to walk the whole route. From Varenna you can pick shorter stages. Two popular sections are the hike to Lierna and the hike towards Dervio and Bellano. Each takes a few hours and works as a half-day outing.
Expect stone steps, forest paths and wide lake views. Good shoes and a basic level of fitness are enough in dry weather.
Easy walks and viewpoints
Not every visitor wants a full hike. Around Varenna you find several short walks.
You can stroll from the harbour to the ferry pier along the Lover’s Walk. You can wander the lanes around Piazza San Giorgio and climb gently towards the upper streets. Even the route between the station and the lake works as a small viewpoint walk.
These routes suit families and seniors who prefer gentle effort.
Swimming, boat trips and kayak tours
In summer, many people swim in the lake near Varenna. There are small access points along the shore. The water is refreshing, and views of Bellagio and the mountains feel special.
You can also join Lake Como boat tours from Varenna. Options range from simple taxi boat rides to small-group cruises. Some hotels and operators rent kayaks or small boats. Paddling along the shore gives a different feeling for the landscape.
Always check local safety advice, weather and boat traffic before swimming or paddling.
Day trips and itineraries from Varenna
The classic triangle: Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio
One of the main reasons to stay in Varenna is its location. Ferries connect the village directly with Bellagio and Menaggio.
A classic day trip looks like this:
Morning in Varenna’s old town and Villa Monastero
Late morning ferry to Bellagio for lunch and shopping
Afternoon ferry to Menaggio for a promenade walk
Evening return to Varenna for dinner by the harbour
You can change the order, but the idea is the same. Varenna works as a calm base, while the other towns add variety.
Eastern shore villages and Lecco
Trains and boats make it easy to explore more of the eastern shore. Bellano, Dervio and Colico all sit on the same line as Varenna.
Bellano has a gorge walk. Dervio and Colico offer beaches, windsurf culture and wide views. Further south, Lecco is a small city with mountains rising almost straight from the water.
You can visit these places as half-day or full-day trips, always returning to your base in the evening.
Weekend in Varenna: suggested itinerary
Day 1
Arrive by train from Milan and check in. Walk the Lover’s Walk, explore Riva Grande and Piazza San Giorgio, then dine at a lakefront restaurant.
Day 2
Spend the morning in the gardens of Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi. After lunch, hike up to Castello di Vezio for views, then relax in the village in the evening.
Day 3
Take ferries to Bellagio and Menaggio. Stroll, shop and enjoy café terraces, then return to Varenna for a final aperitivo by the harbour before leaving.
This simple plan gives you a balanced mix of gardens, castles, walks and boat trips.
Where to stay in Varenna
Lakeside hotels in the historic centre
For a romantic weekend in Varenna, choose a hotel close to the harbour or lakeside promenade. Many rooms here have balconies facing the water.
You step straight out to cafés, ferry piers and the Lover’s Walk. This area is ideal if you travel without a car and like to be in the middle of the action.
Apartments and B&Bs on the upper streets
Apartments and bed and breakfast options spread up the hillside. These stays often give more space and wide lake views. Prices can be friendlier than at the very front.
The trade-off is the climb. Expect stone steps and sloping lanes. For guests with good mobility, this is part of the charm.
Staying nearby: Perledo and Fiumelatte
Above Varenna lies Perledo, a small village with apartments and some hotels. Below the centre you find Fiumelatte. Both areas feel quieter and more residential.
These locations suit visitors with a car or those who do not mind some walking. You stay close to Varenna’s sights but sleep in a calmer setting.
Top Rated Stays in Varenna
1. 🔍Appartamento Pinus Varenna – 9.2 (139 reviews)
Short description: One-bedroom apartment above Varenna with balcony and terrace overlooking Lake Como. Bright, modern interior with a living room and fully equipped kitchen, ideal for couples or longer stays. Best for travellers who want quiet surroundings and panoramic views.
Neighborhood/landmark: Via Pino area above Varenna, near Villa Monastero and Castello di Vezio.
Key facilities: Free Wi-Fi, free private parking, air conditioning, balcony, terrace, full kitchen.
Why it stands out: A peaceful lake-view apartment with rare free parking close to Varenna.
2. 🔍Near Villa Monastero and Castello di Vezio – 9.4 (215 reviews)
Short description: Spacious one-bedroom apartment (around 80 m²) with a large terrace and living room. Stylish, homely design with full kitchen; great for couples or small families.
Neighborhood/landmark: Hillside above Varenna near Villa Monastero and Castello di Vezio.
Key facilities: Free Wi-Fi, free private parking, dishwasher, washing machine, soundproofing, lake-view terrace.
Why it stands out: Large apartment with views and parking just above Varenna’s main landmarks.
3. 🔍Varenna Sweet Home – 9.3 (137 reviews)
Short description: One-bedroom holiday home with living area and sun terrace, set close to the centre. Modern, bright interior with full kitchen, ideal for couples or a small family.
Neighborhood/landmark: Near Varenna-Esino train station and a short walk to the lakeside and ferry.
Key facilities: Free Wi-Fi, air conditioning, washing machine, terrace, full kitchen.
Why it stands out: Great car-free location between station and lake with full apartment comfort.
4. 🔍Bed & Breakfast il Bolentino Varenna – 9.4 (490 reviews)
Short description: Small, cosy B&B with caring hosts and spotless rooms. Generous buffet breakfast served indoors or on the terrace; ideal for couples.
Neighborhood/landmark: Via Venini, near Varenna’s ferry pier and promenade.
Key facilities: Breakfast included, free private parking, free Wi-Fi, adults-only atmosphere.
Why it stands out: One of the most loved B&Bs in Varenna with exceptional location and hospitality.
5. 🔍Hotel Royal Victoria – 9.1 (290 reviews)
Short description: Historic 4-star lakefront hotel in a 19th-century building with elegant rooms and refined service. Perfect for travellers seeking comfort, spa facilities and a prime location.
Neighborhood/landmark: On the lakefront in Varenna’s old town, steps from the main square.
Key facilities: Outdoor pool, spa, sauna, Turkish bath, restaurants, breakfast, free Wi-Fi.
Why it stands out: Classic luxury stay with lakefront views, spa and pool in the heart of the village.
6. 🔍Varenna by Foot – Green House – 9.3 (36 reviews)
Short description: Large three-bedroom apartment (around 100 m²) with garden and lake views. Modern and comfortable, ideal for families or small groups.
Neighborhood/landmark: Quiet residential area within walking distance of Varenna centre.
Key facilities: Free Wi-Fi, air conditioning, private parking, full kitchen, garden.
Why it stands out: Spacious apartment with garden and parking, perfect for groups.
7. 🔍Namaste Apartment Fiumelatte – 9.4 (about 71 reviews)
Short description: Beachfront one-bedroom apartment in the Fiumelatte hamlet with balcony and terrace right above the lake. Cosy, modern interior with kitchenette.
Neighborhood/landmark: Fiumelatte area, about 1.3 km from Varenna centre.
Key facilities: Direct lake access, terrace, balcony, free Wi-Fi, kitchenette, washing machine.
Why it stands out: A true lakeside hideaway ideal for couples wanting peaceful waterfront living.
8. 🔍Varenna by Foot (No Taxi / Car Needed) – 9.4 (57 reviews)
Short description: Large four-bedroom apartment (approx. 110 m²) with garden and lake views. Bright, clean and well-equipped for groups or families.
Neighborhood/landmark: Central Varenna location within walking distance of station, ferry and old town.
Key facilities: Free Wi-Fi, air conditioning, private parking, kitchenette, garden.
Why it stands out: One of the best big-group options in Varenna with an easy car-free location.
9. 🔍El Lavandee – 9.3 (60 reviews)
Short description: Two-bedroom apartment with terrace and calming interiors in blue-white tones. Great for longer stays, families or two couples.
Neighborhood/landmark: Via Statale between Varenna and Fiumelatte, with lake and mountain views.
Key facilities: Free Wi-Fi, free private parking, full kitchen, washing machine, terrace, air conditioning.
Why it stands out: Comfortable family-friendly apartment with parking and lovely lake views.
10. 🔍Tosca House 2 – 8.6 (around 180 reviews)
Short description: Beachfront guesthouse with simple, modern rooms and a warm, relaxed feel. Many rooms include balconies with lake or mountain views.
Neighborhood/landmark: Lakeside location in the Varenna area.
Key facilities: Private beach area, balconies, breakfast, free Wi-Fi, family rooms, shared lounge.
Why it stands out: Good-value lakefront stay with breakfast and direct access to the water.
Food, drink and evening atmosphere
Lakefront restaurants and cafes
Most visitors spend evenings around Riva Grande and the main promenade. Here you find restaurants with terraces over the water. Menus usually mix local lake fish, pasta dishes and Italian classics.
Further back from the harbour, small trattorie sit in narrow lanes. Prices can be slightly lower inland. It is worth exploring a little away from the water.
Aperitivo in Varenna
Aperitivo is a highlight of any stay. Order a spritz, prosecco or local wine before dinner. Snacks often come with your drink.
Lakeside bars fill up quickly on warm evenings. Arrive early if you want the best tables with Bellagio views.
Best time to visit Varenna
Varenna in spring
Spring brings fresh green on the hills and less crowded streets. Gardens at Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi start to bloom. Temperatures are mild, but evenings can still feel cool.
This season suits travellers who like walking and sightseeing without strong heat.
Varenna in summer
Summer is the busiest period. Days are long, and ferry services are frequent. Swimming, boat trips and café life are at their peak.
Expect higher prices and more visitors, especially in July and August. Book ferries and accommodation early if you travel in school holidays.
Varenna in autumn
Autumn brings softer light and fewer crowds. Trees around the lake change colour. Many hotels and restaurants remain open through October.
Temperatures drop in the evenings, but days can still be pleasant for walks and boat trips.
Varenna in winter
In winter Varenna is quiet. Some hotels and restaurants close, and ferry timetables are reduced. The village can feel almost private on some days.
This can be a good time for a peaceful weekend if you do not mind limited services. Always check opening times in advance.
Is Varenna right for you
Varenna for couples and honeymoons
For couples, Varenna is close to perfect. You get sunset views, lakeside dinners and romantic walks without big-city noise.
Honeymooners often choose a lake view hotel or suite. Gardens, castles and boat rides make easy, memorable days.
Varenna with kids
Families enjoy the compact centre and short walks. Children can paddle at small lake access points and watch boats come and go.
There are no large theme parks or long beaches here. Varenna suits families who like simple outings rather than busy attractions.
Varenna for seniors
Seniors appreciate the calm feel, cafés and views. The main challenge is the number of steps. Choosing accommodation close to the lake and ferry piers reduces climbing.
Benches along the promenade and in the gardens offer plenty of rest spots.
Varenna without a car
Varenna is one of the best towns on Lake Como if you travel without a car. You arrive by train, move by ferry and explore on foot.
This makes trip planning easier. You do not worry about traffic, parking or mountain roads.
Practical tips for your Varenna trip
Book accommodation early for June, July and August
Pack comfortable shoes for steps and cobblestones
Check ferry timetables before planning your day trips
Carry a light layer for cooler evenings, even in summer
Buy train tickets in advance and validate if required
Keep luggage small if you stay in an upper-street apartment
A little planning makes your stay smoother and more relaxed.
FAQs
Is Varenna worth visiting?
Yes. Varenna offers classic Lake Como scenery in a compact, walkable village. It combines romance, gardens and easy day trips.
Is Varenna a good base on Lake Como?
Varenna is an excellent base. You have direct trains from Milan, ferries to Bellagio and Menaggio, and plenty to do without a car.
How many days do I need in Varenna?
Two or three nights suit most visitors. This gives time for the village, the villas, the castle and at least one day of ferry trips.
Can I visit Varenna as a day trip from Milan?
Yes. Trains from Milano Centrale make an easy day trip. You can explore the harbour, villas and main viewpoints in one long day.
Do I need a car in Varenna?
No. Most sights are within walking distance, and ferries cover the main lake towns. A car is only useful if you plan to explore deeper into the mountains.
Is Varenna better than Bellagio?
They offer different moods. Bellagio feels busier and more polished. Varenna is smaller and calmer. Many travellers visit both and choose based on personal taste.
Where should I stay in Varenna without a car?
Look for hotels or apartments near the harbour, promenade or Piazza San Giorgio. From there you can walk easily to ferries, cafés and the station.
Plan your Varenna escape
Whether you want a romantic weekend, a short family break or a calm base for Lake Como, Varenna works very well. Combine village walks, villa gardens and one or two simple hikes. Add a triangle ferry day to Bellagio and Menaggio.
Start sketching your Varenna itinerary now. First choose a base in or near the village, then add one or two easy day trips by ferry. Choose the season that fits your travel style and book your stay. Then look forward to lake views, castle paths and slow evenings by the water.
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